Another year, another Timorasso day, otherwise known as Quatar Pass nel Derthona Timurass. I’ve been in Italy twice before for this annual event and in 2018 I wrote a blog post, which stands the test of time, if I don’t say so myself. You can read “I Break for Timorasso” here.

There are always four itineraries and this time we picked the orange one, not having visited the wineries previously. Unfortunately, I was not in the best of shape for a day of drinking (and spitting; I always spit), because my birthday was the day before. We had wine-loving Italians over for a lunch, which featured six bottles of wine for four people. Needless to say, I was a bit bleary-eyed and worse for wear.

 Nonetheless, I soldiered on. Here are my favorites.

REIS

First stop was in Montemarzino in the piazza in front of the church. There was a tent set up with several wineries pouring their wares. These included Pomodolce, La Spinetta, Mauro Veglia, and Sassaia. There was also Rèis, my favorite of the bunch. Six high school friends from the Langhe hills banded together in 2019 to start making Timorasso. They buy organic grapes from two sisters in Berzano. Their Derthona Timorasso was very good for a first effort. I’ll be watching their progress.

PAOLO POGGIO

Paolo Poggio was a real discovery. It’s no wonder we never heard of him before, as his is one the smallest wineries (only 4 hectares of vineyards) in the Colli Tortonesi, where Timorasso grows. We were invited into his living room, where in addition to the wines, he served us grissini (Piedmont breadsticks) and two egg tarts seasoned with herbs. We were the only ones there, until an Italian couple arrived, maybe 10 minutes later. At that point, Paolo took them to another room and was replaced by his son, Matteo.

Paolo’s grandfather founded the winery in the early 1900s, and now Paolo works with his son -- the fourth generation. They make two Timorassos: Rochetta from a single vineyard planted in 1993, now 30 years old. The vine age gives great concentration and power. And Derthona, a Timorasso made from younger vines planted in 2020. By law, it has to age in cellar for two years, so it won’t be available until later this year. The Rochetta is a steal at 8 euros. We’ll be back for a case.

MANDIROLA

We joined a virtual party going on under Mandirola under a thatched garden awning. The Italians came in waves. There were also a Dutch beer judge, among others. This was quite a popular spot and I can see why based on the wines.

At Mandirola, there are older vines than Paolo Poggio’s, dating back to the 1930s. They make a heavenly Timorasso from 90+ year old vines called Tantéi. Enrico Mandirola’s grandfather founded the farm in 1913. At the time, the tradition was mixed agriculture – so a bit of grapes, wheat, and corn. The winery played a part in the revival of Timorasso, since Walter Massa, the man responsible for saving the grape, originally sourced his grapes from Mandirola’s vines. (To read more about Massa and the history and renaissance of Timorasso, see my article, “Talking Timorasso”.)

In addition to the Tantéi, they make two other Timorassos. Their entry-level Derthona is made from 30-year-old vines, which is quite impressive. Mandirola also makes a sparkling Timorasso called Mon Cavarè, using the metodo classico or champagne method. With 24 months of contact with the lees, it’s a great example of Timorasso’s potential as a sparkler. This was the only bottle we bought that day.

Til next year, Timorasso!