Piedmont has a passion for chocolate. Ever since the 17th century, when the royal Savoy family in Turin indulged their sweet tooth with hot chocolate drinks and chocolate-hazelnut spreads, chocolate has been a staple in this sub-alpine region. One popular dessert is bonet, a dark chocolate-almond custard that incorporates crumbled amaretti cookies.

The following recipe comes from an engaging book by Alan Tardi, former chef at Follonica. After closing his New York City restaurant in the wake of 9/11, Tardi moved to Piedmont, started working in the Barolo vineyards, fell in love, and wrote a book about it called Romancing the Vine. In a bow to his former life as a chef, Tardi included 25 classic Piedmont recipes, including the following:

Bonet
Piedmont Chocolate-Almond Custard
(serves 8)

1/2 cup sugar, plus 3/4 cup sugar
8 eggs
3 ounces (approx. 3/4 cup) bitter dark cocoa powder
2 tablespoons rum
1/4 pound amaretti cookies
1 quart milk

Place 1/2 cup sugar in a heavy-bottomed sauce pot. Mix in about 1 tablespoon water (just enough to dissolve sugar), place over medium heat, and cook until a golden brown caramel is formed. Pour the caramel into a 1-1/2 quart (9x5x3 inch) loaf pan, and tilt it back and forth to completely and evenly cover the bottom. Set aside.

Crack the eggs into a large mixing bowl, add the remaining 3/4 cup sugar, and whisk. Add the powdered chocolate and the rum, and whisk to combine well.

Break the amaretti cookies into a saucepan. Add the milk and heat over low flame until the cookies dissolve (about 15 minutes). Turn off the heat and let stand until lukewarm (10 minutes).

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Add half the warm milk mixture to the chocolate and eggs, one ladle at a time, mixing well to incorporate each time. Then add the remaining milk and whisk well.

Pour cocoa mixture into the loaf pan, cover with foil, and place the loaf pan in a small roasting pan with sides 3-4 inches high. Add enough warm water to reach halfway up the sides of the load pan and place the whole thing in the over.

Cook the bonet for 45 minutes or until a wooden toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

Let cool. Slide a thin knife along the sides, place a platter over the loaf pan, and invert. Slice, spoon some of the caramel over the top, and serve.


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